本·戈勒姆和Byredo公司的成立是美容行業(yè)的經(jīng)典故事。Gorham出生在斯德哥爾摩,由來(lái)自孟買的母親在多倫多撫養(yǎng)長(zhǎng)大,在瑞典的簽證問(wèn)題阻礙了他的夢(mèng)想之前,他曾被訓(xùn)練成一名職業(yè)籃球運(yùn)動(dòng)員。在建筑行業(yè)做了一段時(shí)間的工作并獲得了美術(shù)學(xué)位后,他偶然遇到了調(diào)香師皮埃爾·伍爾夫(Pierre Wulff),這讓他對(duì)香水引發(fā)記憶和重現(xiàn)時(shí)光的能力產(chǎn)生了興趣。Ben Gorham的肖像刊登在2020年10月發(fā)行的壁紙*上。攝影byMarcus歐勝。在那里,拜瑞多誕生了,并迅速成為一個(gè)文化帝國(guó),現(xiàn)在涵蓋皮具、珠寶和化妝品。在整個(gè)過(guò)程中,gorhamam將品牌作為一個(gè)平臺(tái),與不同行業(yè)的知名音樂(lè)人Travis Scott、化妝師Isamaya ffrenchash、設(shè)計(jì)師Isamaya ffrenchash等人進(jìn)行合作。并支持積極進(jìn)取的創(chuàng)意人員的工作?,F(xiàn)在,Gorham剛剛推出了他迄今為止最具個(gè)性的一款香水:孟買噪音(Mumbai Noise),這款香水的靈感來(lái)自他童年時(shí)探望母親家人的經(jīng)歷。盡管這款香水是戈哈姆個(gè)人生活的親密寫(xiě)照,但和Byredo推出的所有香水一樣,它也有一個(gè)更遠(yuǎn)大的目標(biāo)。為了發(fā)起宣傳活動(dòng),該品牌聘請(qǐng)了年輕的攝影師阿希什·沙阿(Ashish Shah)來(lái)提供孟買創(chuàng)造性亞文化和當(dāng)代青年運(yùn)動(dòng)的愿景,這些場(chǎng)景在主流西方文化中很少被曝光。在這里,Gorham討論了他的印度傳統(tǒng),將個(gè)人歷史轉(zhuǎn)化為氣味,以及為什么他認(rèn)為捍衛(wèi)年輕藝術(shù)家的作品是重要的。
The story of Ben Gorham and the founding of Byredo is an oft-told tale in the beauty industry. Born in Stockholm and raised in Toronto by his mother, who was originally from Mumbai, Gorham trainedto be a professional basketball player before visa issues back in Sweden stunted his dream.After a stint working in construction and earning a degree in fine art, he hada chance meeting with perfumer Pierre Wulff that sparkedhis interest in the ability of perfume to trigger memories and recreate moments in time. Portrait of Ben Gorham featured in the October 2020 issue of Wallpaper*.Photography byMarcus Ohlsson.From there, Byredo was born and quickly became an empire of cultural cachet that now spans leatherwear, jewellery, and a make-up line. Throughout it all, Gorhamhas used the brand as a platform both to collaborate with major names across various industries –musician Travis Scott, make-up artist Isamaya Ffrench– and to champion the work of up-and-coming creatives.Now, Gorham has just launched one of his most personal creations yet: Mumbai Noise, a scent inspired by his childhood trips to visit his mother’s family. And while the fragrance is anintimate portrayal of Gorham’s own life, like all Byredo launches it also has a broader aim. Ben Gorham on Mumbai: memories and modernity To create the launch campaign, the brand enlisted the young photographer Ashish Shah to offer a vision of Mumbai’s creative subcultures and contemporary youth movements, scenesthat tend to receive little exposure in mainstream Western culture.Here, Gorham discusses his Indian heritage, translating that personal history into scent, and why he feels it is important to champion the work of young artists.Wallpaper*: Why did you want to create a fragrance that expressed your Indian heritage?Ben Gorham: There are many of my memories and odes to India woven into our collections, but Mumbai Noise perhaps has the most overt link to my childhood trips to [the Mumbai suburb of] Chembur. It was a place I went to spend time with my grandmother and the memories are vivid. Mumbai hits you the minute you get off the plane, it’s a sensory overload. The smells and the noise and the motion of the city as it moves at this intense pace. It has an overwhelming sense of place that you just can’t escape.W*: Why did you want to work withAshish Shahon this campaign?BG: I was drawn to Ashish because of the modernity and reality of his work and his distinct lens on his home country. Beyond the scent, I wanted the campaign to capture the hearts and minds of contemporary India. Mumbai has evolved at an astounding pace – it changed drastically in the years that I didn’t visit – yet the way the rest of the world continues to depict India remains so clichéd.